So far I have built 4 of my
module bases: The Peace River Bridge, what I call Peace River Industrial, the Peace
River Depot (the corner module) and the Heart River Bridge modules.
I made my module bases out of
steel stud and foam tops. Even at 30” by 90” the modules end up being extremely
light weight and sturdy. I can lift a 30” by 90” module easily with one hand. By
very scientific means (standing on the bathroom scale with and without the
module) I weighed a standard 30x90 module, including the legs and cross-braces,
and it came out to 20 pounds; 10 pounds for the module and 10 for the legs and
braces. I estimate that the completed module will weigh about 5 to 10 pounds
more once all the track, wiring, facia, backdrop and scenery items are in place.
I find that 25 to 30 pounds per module is still a very manageable weight, especially
given the size. This is even lighter than I had expected. I had originally
planned to use 2x4 type steel stud (1 ½” x 3 ½”) instead of the 2x3 type (1 ½”
x 2 ½”) I ended up building with. Aside from the weight advantage, frames made of this material are ideal for "mobile" layouts because they will not twist, shrink and swell over time like wood will when subject to different moisture levels.
Cutting is easy using tin snips
The steel stud has proven to be
more than sturdy enough to support the weight and be able to handle the
stresses of being moved about. Once the 2” Styrofoam top is in place there is very
little flexing in the module and with the legs attached there is none at all. This
was of paramount importance because the future scenery would not withstand any
twisting or bending. The 1/8th inch Masonite I will be using for the
facia and backdrop will add even more rigidity to the structure once it is
attached. During planning I was afraid that the module centers and ends may droop but they proved to be extremely stiff along their lengths.
1x4’s attached to simple 2x2 legs
with 1x2 cross-braces make a good stable platform for each module. Given the
light weight of the modules I probably could get away with substituting the 1x4’s
for 1x2’s but it’s always good to have a little too much than not enough. Each
2x2 leg has a 3/8” hole drilled into the center of the bottom to a depth of about
1 ½”. I hammer a 3/8” tee nut to this hole and use a 1” long 3/8” bolt to allow
for fine tuning of the module height. On the head of the bolts I stick self-adhesive
felt pads to protect the flooring material. I initially bought these pads at
the hardware store but then found them much cheaper at the local “Dollarama”.
The whole assembly is bolted together
with 5/16” bolts and wing nuts; 4 bolts attaching the legs to the module frame
and 4 more attaching the cross braces to the legs. The cross braces serve two
purposes; they stabilize the module against side to side sway and keeping the
legs a uniform distance apart. There is some twisting possible in the studs
that the legs are attached to and they are not perfectly square to the module
in some cases so the cross braces are necessary to correct this.
Completed modules together (cross braces yet to be attached)
viewed from the backdrop side of the heart river module
The modules themselves are
attached to each other with 2 more 5/16” bolts between the edges of each
module to either side of the point where the rails will meet. The layout then
becomes even more solid, betraying its flimsy look. I didn’t bother to make the
spacing of the interfaces uniform as these modules will always be assembled in
this order and configuration.
I will be building 2 more 30x90
modules shortly and I will document the construction of each in great detail on
a future posting so… stay tuned.
Mike
Hello Mike,
ReplyDeleteNice project! Very interesting location along river, with industrial areas, etc...
Good luck!
Patrick (from Montréal)
Mike,
ReplyDeleteI really like your ideas for using galvanized steel stud to build your benchwork. I did not see how you attached the foam to the steel stud. Could you explain that in slightly more detail? I am also curious if you experienced shrinkage of the foam as other modelers have discussed? Lastly, did you attach fascia to the viewable edges or leave the exposed steel and foam?
I have two modules in my basement made of 1x4 pine, plywood, and Homasote but am looking to build more in the 'Best' way possible.
Thanks,
Alan Smith
Cheshire, CT USA
AlanofSmith@gmail.com